Looking For Inspiration - Visiting “The Museum at FIT”, NYC

"Fashion" by BP, December 2015

The winter break and another occasion to take advantage of the New York City. Since Basia expresses a big interest in sewing I took her to The Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) http://www.fitnyc.edu/22937.asp

http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/

We strolled through “Faking It: Originals, Copies, and Counterfeits” exhibition organized by Ariele Elia, compered look-alike pieces, admired the beauty of textiles, appreciated splendor of a plain cut and simply enjoyed a worm hall in a cold winter time.

At the entrance there were two outfits from 1966 - an original by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and a licensed copy. We couldn’t say which was which.

Beginning chronologically with a 1903 we saw an elegant, purple velvet dress by Charles Frederick Worth. A big demand for his brand created a market for copyists.

Further down we saw how Madeleine Vionnet implemented various initiatives to stop coping her designs, such as marking her label with her thumbprint in order to authenticate each creation. Unfortunately, this did not entirely discourage copying, as can be seen in an unapproved imitation of her “Little Horses” dress from 1924. Likewise, in an effort to battle unauthorized copying during the 1930s, the Fashion Originators “Guild of America registered fashion designers” work. An example of a black fringe evening dress with the registered label and sketch is included in Faking It.

From the beginning the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture struggled with maintaining the exclusive couture, while promoting it through press coverage and licensed copies. After World War II the couture industry began to re-stabilize. Nevertheless the high demand for Christian Dior’s 1947 collection led to many unauthorized copies of his silhouette. Faking It uses a Nettie Rosenstein dress from that same year to illustrate such copying.

Throughout the 50s, couturiers relied seriously on department stores that would purchase couture garments for the purpose of producing licensed copies. The exhibition features more than ten examples of various authorized couture copies from department stores around the world.

Once Coco Chanel said, “Fashion should slip out of your hands. The very idea of protecting the seasonal arts is childish. One should not bother to protect that which dies the minute it is born.” Chanel's tweed suits were so recognizable, she saw copies of her designs as a form of publicity. A selection of six Chanel originals and copies from the 1960s to the 1980s is featured on display.

A special display case in Faking It places authentic designer bags next to their matching imitations. Examples include bags from Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel, and the CFDA x eBay anti-counterfeit campaign, “You Can’t Fake Fashion,” along with shoes by Christian Louboutin. Next to it video showcase detailed photos that illustrate how to spot a counterfeit.

In 2007 runway show, Yohji Yamamoto debuted a newly created “YY” logo that was presented prominently on a number of garments and pieces of luggage. The logo was strangely identical to the familiar Louis Vuitton monogram, and some audience members thought it was referencing Vuitton’s origins as a designer of luxury luggage. Was Yamamoto mocking the French brand and making a comment about consumerism? Or - applauding the power of a venerable luxury brand? No lawsuits resulted from Yohji Yamamoto’s new logo, but it did flirt with crossing the line of trademark infringement. Recently, a designer Brian Lichtenberg created a humorous interpretation of the Hermes logo with his “Homies” collection. Fashion lawyers are still debating whether this is a case of trademark infringement or protected speech as legitimate parody.

CHECKERED collection - Yves Saint Laurent’s “Mondrian” dress. Copies ranging from dresses to boots popped up in the wake of Yves Saint Laurent’s 1965 collection. In Saint Laurent’s original “Mondria Copies ranging from dresses to boots popped up in the wake of Yves Saint Laurent’s 1965 collection. In Saint Laurent’s original “Mondrian” dress, the rectangles and grid lines are separate pieces that have been sewn together.

Picture with a Campbell soup dress - René Magritte’s painting, The Son of Man (1964), depicts a man in a bowler hat and suit with a green apple covering his face. Shortly after The Son of Man was first shown, Italian designer Krizia referenced it in a sequin-appliquéd sweater. Almost a decade later, designers continued to draw on Magritte’s surreal imagery. The dress from Bloomingdale’s has a repeat pattern based on his 1966 painting, Decalcomania.

Andy Warhol began painting portraits of Campbell’s soup cans in 1962. Fortunately, the Campbell’s Soup Company looked upon this, not as copyright infringement, but as a form of free publicity. In fact, Campbell’s went full circle by creating this promotional dress that references Warhol. One could purchase the dress by mailing in $1.00 and two soup can labels.

Old from 20th, greenish dress - UNAUTHORIZED REPRODUCTION OF MADELEINE VIONNET’S “LITTLE HORSES” DRESS

Couturier Madeleine Vionnet fought copying of her designs on several fronts. For her “Little Horses” dress, she collaborated with embroiderer Albert Lesage to create a difficult-to-copy beading technique. Nevertheless, her beaded horses were reproduced in this unauthorized version, though the lower portion of the dress was eliminated.

Block Printing in working letterpress shops by the South Street Seaport, NYC

During 2015 winter break I took Basia to “Bowne Printers,” a part of The South Street Seaport Museum, located on Water Street; a working letterpress shop as well as the craftsmanship-woodcarving studio established in 19th century New York.

Basia sat at a special table in memory of Sal Polisi, Master Woodcarver at South Street Seaport Museum, to write a thank you note for what she had learned from him while watching him carving and listening stories at his workshop. 

Sal Polisi died last January, 2015 at the age of 79.

http://salpolisiwoodcarver.com/

http://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/27/nyregion/sal-polisi-master-woodcarver-at-south-street-seaport-museum-dies-at-79.html?_r=0

Bowne Printers offer variety of extraordinary printing workshops when they use the traditional methods and historic presses that once documented marine trade for contemporary artisanal projects. The education programs provide a remarkable experience of the history and environment of New York port city, and an understanding of how the port connects New York to the world. For more information, please visit https://southstreetseaportmuseum.org/education/workshops/ call 212-748-8753 or email education@seany.org

Job printing rose to prominence in the 19th century. New York’s businesses depended on printed paper. Bill-heads, letterheads, posters, trade cards, advertisements, receipts, bills of lading, and stock certificates, just to name a few, were essential elements in business transactions. To keep up with the ever increasing demand for this work, printers’ establishments flourished throughout lower Manhattan – the heart of New York’s commercial and shipping district – where they could best serve their clients: ship captains, shopkeepers, fishmongers, chandlers, and practitioners of the hundred-and-one other trades vital to the economy of the burgeoning port and city.

Basia inspired by the bill-heads, letterheads, posters, trade cards, advertisements, receipts, bills of lading, and stock certificates chose beautifully carved letters and wrote deeply touching our hearts massage. February 2015

2015 - Lunar Chinese Year of The Ram 4713 - Teach Your Child How To Be Open-Minded

新年快樂，恭喜發財，身體健康

Wishing you a Happy New Year 

Best, Urszula, Basia and Peter 

The Chinese year 4713 began on Feb. 19, 2015. It’s a year of The Ram/Sheep

Legend has it that in ancient times, Buddha asked all the animals to meet him on Chinese New Year. Twelve came, and Buddha named a year after each one. He announced that the people born in each animal's year would have some of that animal's personality. 

People born in sheep years are artistic, charming, sensitive, and sweet. 

Ram is known as the most creative sign in the Chinese zodiac.

Chinese months are calculated by the lunar calendar, with each month beginning on the darkest day. New Year festivities traditionally start on the first day of the month and continue until the fifteenth, when the moon is brightest.

Chinese New Year is the longest and most important celebration in the Chinese calendar. In China, the New Year is a time of family reunion. Families gather at homes for visits and share meals, most significantly a feast on New Year's Eve. 

People wear red clothes, decorate with poems on red paper, and give children "lucky money" in red envelopes. Red symbolizes fire, which according to legend can drive away bad luck. Long ago, people in China lit bamboo stalks, believing that the crackling flames would frighten evil spirits.

"Me and my dragon friend" by BP

The lantern festival is held on the fifteenth day of the first lunar month. People hang glowing lanterns in temples, and carry lanterns to an evening parade under the light of the full moon. In many areas the highlight of the lantern festival is the dragon dance. The dragon is typically made of silk, paper, and bamboo. Traditionally the dragon is held aloft by young men who dance as they guide the colorful beast through the streets. 

Health Benefits of Fun Swimming

Swimming is a relaxing activity with lots of fun and most of all a wide range of health benefits. 

There are some:

• Lowers Stress, Higher Spirits and Keeps a Better Brain
• Increases Muscle Tone and Strength
• Improves Flexibility
• Lowers Risk of Diabetes
• Controls Weight
• Keeps Heart Healthy
• Improves Cholesterol
• Improves Asthma Symptoms

Splashing, wading and paddling = a great day. 

Find Basia in a white swimming cup, 2014

Q: What kind of fish can't swim?

A: A dead fish.

Q: What kind of exercises are best for a swimmer?

A: Pool-ups!

Q: Why did the teacher jump into the water?

A: She wanted to test the water!

Q: Where do zombies like to go swimming?

A: The Dead Sea 

Q: How do people swimming in the ocean say HI to each other?

A: They Wave!

Q: What do a dentist and a swim coach have in common?

A: They both use drills!

Q: What race is never run?

A: A swimming race.

Q: What is a polar bear's favorite stroke?

A: Blubber-fly!

Q: Did you hear about the slow swimmer?

A: He could only do the crawl.

Reading, Measuring and Baking Fun with “Polish Yeast Cake”

Basia baking a cake, 2014

Cooking or baking is a fun way to reinforce the math skills. When your child cooks or bakes he practices reading comprehension, adding and subtracting fractions, multiplication, division, and more. Most significantly, you both have fun spending time together and learning.

Yeast Cake

That’s What You Will Need:

• Favorite Recipe (you can use the one below for a “Polish Yeast Cake”
• Ingredients to bake
• Paper
• Pen

That’s What You Will Do:

• Look over the ingredients with your child. Ask to identify the fractions within the recipe.
• Ask to convert any whole numbers into fractions. Example, 1 cup of milk = 2/2 or 4/4. This puts all numbers in fraction form. Remember: All fractions must have common denominators in order to be added or subtracted. Be sure that you guide your child to convert all fractions with a common denominator before he attempts to do his math.
• Ask to rewrite the recipe.
• Ask to rewrite the recipe subtracting a given amount from each ingredient. Example, subtract 1/3 cup of flour or subtract 1/8 teaspoon of salt. You won’t use these measurements: they are only meant to give a pinch of practice in subtractions.
• Use your favorite recipe! Start cooking! Let your child do the measuring to practice with the fractions.

Measuring accurately is very important cooking skill in the kitchen.  Even though the recipes in cookbooks are quite tolerant the cook still has to follow basic rules of measuring.

When you bake measuring accurately is really critical to the success of the recipe.

Memorize!

2 cups in a pint, 2 pints in a quart, 4 quarts in a gallon

1 Tablespoon = 3 Teaspoons

1 Cup = 16 Tablespoons

½ Cup = 8 Tablespoons

¼ Cup = 4 Tablespoons

Using these rules and tips, you can be confident that any recipe you tackle will be a success.

“Polish Yeast Cake / Ciasto Drożdżowe” - Recipe

INGREDIENTS (Make 2 small loafs of cake.)

• 70g fresh yeast or 3 tbs active dry yeast
• 1 cup sugar 
• 330 ml milk = 1.4 cup, a little bit less than 1 and a half cup
• 500g plain flour = 17oz = 2 cups
• 100g unsalted butter = 3.4oz
• 5 medium egg yolks
• ½ tsp sea salt
• 1 packet of vanilla sugar for a good smell- optional
• 150g raisins or other dried fruits - optional

TOOLS YOU NEED

• Two mixing bowls (small and big)
• Saucepan to melt butter
• Whisk or mixer
• Measuring cup, tablespoon and teaspoon
• Two 11×22 cm (4.5 x 8.5 in) non-stick loaf tins (greased with butter or oil)
• Wooden skewer

PROCEDURE TO PREPER A GOOD DOUGH AND CAKE

Rehydrate raisins if they are very dry, drain and leave aside. – Optional.

In a large mixing bowl combine yeast with a little bit of worm milk and sugar; sprinkle all with the flour, leave aside until it starts growing; approximately 10 minutes.

In the meantime melt butter. Don’t boil it! Leave aside to cool it down.

In a small mixing bowl combine the egg yolks with the rest of the sugar and whisk/mix until well combined.

Add the egg yolk mixture to the bowl with yeast, stir slowly in flour, butter, vanilla sugar, salt and the rest of the milk and stir for a while to make sure it is mixed well. Add raisins or cranberries if desired.

Finish mixing with your hands. If you feel like the dough is too lose add a little bit more of flour and mix it again.

Transfer the dough to greased tins. Once the tins are ready you can sprinkle the dough with some crumbs (100 g butter, 100 g sugar, 200 g flour mixed together) – Optional. Cover the tins with kitchen towel and leave in a warm, quiet place to grow for about 30 minutes.

Bake in the over preheated to 150°C (302°F) for about 35-55 minutes until golden brown.  Check after 35 minutes; color first and if golden brown use skewer to poke a cake to make sure that is moist but not sticky inside. If not ready leave for few more minutes.

Polish Yeast Cake

Very useful measuring worksheets:

http://www.learningzonexpress.com/Documents/Worksheets/3319_Baking_Math_Worksheet.pdf

Check for more worksheets:

http://search.theeducationcenter.com/educationproduct/baking-cookies-algebraic-expressions-worksheet

http://library.vcc.ca/learningcentre/worksheets/baking_math.cfm